The width and height of the panorama is shown as a number of pixels. on clouds or in water (which might move between shots), can be deleted.Ĭlick 3. This means that extra control points can be added or unwanted control points, e.g.
#STITCH PANORAMA GIMP VS HUGIN MANUAL#
Hugin now does this automatically but the manual function is retained. This involved identifying matching features in the overlapping areas of adjacent images. In the early days of panorama stitching it was necessary to insert control points manually. The process will take a few seconds depending on the size and number of image files and the speed of your processor.Ī message in the top right of the window will show the number of control points and the mean error in the alignment.
Align – This refers to the positioning of the images relative to each other prior to stitching. Hugin usually detects the Lens type, Focal length, and Focal length multiplier (aka “crop factor”)Ĭlick 2. Select: Interface>Simple to open the Assistant tab.Ĭlick 1. A Simple LDR Panoramaįor the benefit of anyone not yet familiar with Hugin I will first describe the “Simple” interface which produces a very good result automatically using just the 3 “correctly” exposed shots – i.e. My article “Which raw processor” may be of interest. Hugin does not accept raw files so it is necessary to process these to tiff files, and my raw processor of choice is RawTherapee. The rows from top to bottom are the left, centre and right frames of the panorama. On this occasion I allowed the camera metering to set the 0EV exposure.
Each row shows three shots at 0EV, -2EV, +2EV using the camera’s auto-bracketing facility. I almost always shoot from left to right. A ball and socket head with a separate clamp screw for the panning motion was used. A panoramic head was not used as the subject matter was at a distance of a few hundred metres and parallax would not be a problem. For the project described here a tripod was necessary as it was late evening and the light was fading rapidly. Shooting images for panoramas is a topic I have described previously. If you are using a digital SLR with a good lens and lots of mega-pixels why compromise? It might be necessary to accept jpeg images if you are shooting a sequence and require a high frame rate, but wherever possible I shoot raw so that I can get the best out of the saved images in post processing. For the high dynamic range (HDR) process it was necessary to use the advanced interface. The simple interface is all that is needed for a normal low dynamic range (LDR) panorama. The first thing to realise is that the user interface offers 3 options: simple, advanced and expert. I am using the latest version of Hugin, 2017.0.0. What follows is therefore based on personal experience. Although I have been using Hugin for several years (and Panorama Tools before Hugin) I am not a frequent user and do not consider myself an expert, rather an enthusiastic amateur. On a recent visit to Media City at Salford, I shot a set of bracketed exposures which I have just stitched using Hugin. Modern digital SLR cameras usually provide auto-bracketing meaning that a bracket of three or more shots can be made as a rapid sequence, with a single press of the shutter button. It follows that to capture a high dynamic range it is necessary to take a number of shots of the same subject at different exposures, a technique known as bracketing. I recommend three as a minimum, but the more you add, the better it will be.High-dynamic-range imaging (HDRI) is the compositing and tone-mapping of images to extend the dynamic range beyond the native capability of the capturing device – Wikipedia.Ĭonsequently, LDR refers to images with dynamic range within the native capability of the capturing device, or that of the display device – My definition. Do this several times so that you have several points. When you are sure this is in the right place, click 'add' in the bottom right corner. Each time you click, a crosshair with the word 'new' will pop up. Click it in one of the photos, and then click in the other. The bird dropping on the planks is a good point that is easy to see. Now we need to find some common points in the two photos.
You can see in the picture that I have chosen 5 (part of the 3, 4, 5 group) and 6 (part of the 0, 1, 2, 8, 9, 11, 12 etc. On the left side, open an image that is in one group, and on the right, choose an image from a different group that does match up with part of the left image. Go to the 'Control Points' tab and open the images on the drop-down menus. The separate groups of numbers are groups that are not linked together. One group enclosed is a group of photos that have been successfully joined together. You will see groups of numbers in brackets. Look at your error message (it is a good idea to take a screenshot). The idea of this step is to join all the photos together.